2 discoveries
Hokkaido's largest Ainu settlement, a lakeshore street of 30+ carving and embroidery shops run by the roughly 120 people who live there, plus Japan's first theater built solely for Ainu dance.
A laid-back Tochigi town that breathes ceramics — climbing kilns on the hillsides, hundreds of pottery shops and studios, and twice-yearly fairs where you buy rustic Mashiko-ware straight from the people who made it.