Tendo, the Shogi-Piece Town
📍 Yamagata, Tendo
The town that carves about 95% of Japan's shogi (Japanese chess) pieces leans all the way in — giant chess pieces on the streets, shogi-shaped everything, craftsmen you can watch at work, and an April festival played on a board of costumed humans.
If a town can have a hobby, Tendo’s is shogi — Japanese chess. It produces roughly 95% of all the shogi pieces in Japan, and it celebrates that fact with a wholehearted, slightly silly enthusiasm that makes it a delight to wander.
Why It’s Interesting
The whole town is in on the joke: giant shogi pieces stand in squares and parks, the manhole covers are chess pieces, and shogi motifs decorate the station and shops. You can watch master craftsmen engrave pieces by hand, try carving your own at a workshop, and learn the game at a small museum. The grand finale is the springtime Human Shogi, in which a live game is played out on a giant outdoor board by people in full samurai costume as the “pieces.” It’s the kind of single-minded local obsession that’s pure Roadside Japan.
Best Time to Visit
Year-round for the craft and workshops; late April for the spectacular Human Shogi festival (and the cherry blossoms around it).
Getting There
Everything clusters around Tendo Station on the Yamagata Shinkansen — an easy, fun half-day.
📸 Mon-chan's camera roll
Snapshots from our very good boy on the road.
Where it is
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Nearby discoveries
Yamagata Imoni Festival
Bunshokan (Former Yamagata Prefectural Office)
Yamagata Hanagasa Festival
Zao Onsen & the Okama Crater
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