Okunoin Cemetery, Koyasan

On the sacred mountain of Koyasan, heartland of Shingon Buddhism, a path leads into the trees and does not feel like it belongs to the ordinary world. This is Okunoin, Japan’s largest cemetery: roughly two kilometres of forest floor holding more than 200,000 graves beneath cedars that have stood for centuries.

Why It’s Interesting

The scale and silence are overwhelming — mossy stupas, weathered Jizo statues in faded red bibs, and the tombs of feudal lords all crowding under giant trees. The path ends at the Torodo, the Lantern Hall, where some 10,000 lanterns burn, two of them said to have stayed lit for over 900 years, before the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, whom the faithful believe rests there in eternal meditation. Among the ancient stones you’ll also find oddly delightful modern company memorials — a rocket here, a coffee cup there.

Best Time to Visit

Magical year-round, but dawn or after dark is when the lantern-lit avenue truly transports you. November maples and winter snow each transform it.

Getting There

Ride the cable car to Koyasan and a bus to the Okunoin entrance. Better yet, stay in a temple shukubo lodging so you can walk the path in the quiet of early morning.